The most part of the Italians when they meet a Bergamasco (a person who lives in Bergamo) ask if he or she is from the upper or lower city. Yes, because this city is divided into two, a part of Bergamo is really crouched on the hills, at the foot of the Orobic Prealps, while the other develops in the plains, without following a particular apparent criterion. Bergamo Alta is the oldest part of the city, and it is the most interesting part for tourists. The core of the Upper Town has medieval origins. The Venetian walls and the Rocca, however, are posterior. Bergamo Bassa, on the other hand, identifies itself in all that remains outside these walls and it is the more modern half. There are 15 pedestrian access routes to Bergamo Alta. Uphill paths, sometimes only cobblestones, sometimes real stairways, on the hills and often line beautiful villas. My choice, however, has been different … there is indeed a convenient funicular, built in 1887 that leads directly to the upper city through the Venetian walls and that is used by the inhabitants routinely to reach the place of work or just for a ride. From the arrival point of the funicolar you can easily reach the main square of the city: Piazza Vecchia that is the symbol of Bergamo Alta Here the sight of the winged stone lion of St Mark atop a mullioned window, confirms that Venice won and then ruled Bergamo for 350 years. All the most interesting buildings are concentrated here: • The Palazzo della Ragione • The civic tower, also called “il Campanone” • The library building At the center of the square is the Fontana di Piazza Vecchia. Crossing the square and slipping into the portico below the Palazzo della Ragione, you come out into Piazza Duomo, which houses four real beauties: • The Duomo of Bergamo • The Colleoni Chapel • The Baptistery • The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore is a really peculiar place, and I have never seen a place like that in other italian cities. Entering here you’ll find yourself under a ceiling writhing with hundreds of white stone limbs and some of the most exuberant, almost surreal marquetry in Italy. Donizetti, composer of 75 bel canto operas and a Bergamo native, is buried here. On this occasion I could not visit this beautiful city in depth, but I will definitely come back to see many other places that are really worth a stay in Bergamo.

I am always surprised by the strength, intelligence and creativity of artisans, farmers and entrepreneurs of  my region,  Emilia Romagna. Umberto Cesari, certainly, is one of these. The pleasant discovery was made a few days ago during a visit to the cellars and lands of the Umberto Cesari’s winery. From the highway, exit Castel San Pietro Terme, just a few kilometers you reach the first hills on the border between Emilia, Romagna and Tuscany. The view is really nice, especially in Spring when the light green faceted sprouts gives a fresh feeling and it is incredibly relaxing. In this area at an altitude of 250-400 metres above sea level and protected by the Calanchi Azzurri, a particular kind of inaccessible and magnificent elevations, there are Cesari’s vineyards. Here in 1967, Mr. Umberto began his activities, believing strongly in the possibilities of the ancient wine of this area, the Sangiovese. The visit starts from the oldest plant where you can follow the various stages of the processing of grapes and wine aging. The visit  continues in the brand new villa located at the top of the hill where you can enjoy a wonderful view on the vineyards and Bologna. Inside the villa you will find a store with an area for tastings A tasting room lined with wood , an elegant and technologic ambient. At the lower floor there is a huge room of barrels for aging wine… the sight  is astonishing . At the first floor  the administrative offices of the company. The kindness and warmth of people you meet during the tour make it an incredibly enjoyable time . As for wines … I’m no expert but I really enjoyed tastings of wines and cold cuts with croutons. My favorite it is definitely the MOMA, a red wine , fresh and high quality, made of Sangiovese with addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot! Umberto Cesari is Considered one of Romagna’s finest wine producers, cannot go wrong!

In the mist, in a flat land of fields of forages grown for feeding cows, in a small town in the Bolognese countryside called San Giovanni in Persiceto lies one of the real Parmigiano Reggiano cheese productions. My uncle’s one.  This is where I was born, where I can find my roots. I can tell you about smells, colors, habits and traditions… Parmigiano Reggiano is not only a cheese, it is the story of the hard work and sacrifices of many people , in this case of a whole family, that started in the fifties with my grandfather Enea Caretti. From more than 60 years, every single day, early in the morning, my family has made and continue to make  Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Everything begins from the fields , from the forage for cows . There are restricted rules for the feeding of the cattle. Parmigiano Reggiano is a whole natural product, no additives or preservatives are added, that’s why the milk must respect determined parameters and cows must not eat fermented or silage forage. In the dairy the master cheese maker is like a Chef in a kitchen, he knows exactly what to do and when, in a fascinating dance between cauldrons and milk. The most amazing thing is seeing the cheese maker taking out from the cauldrons, with deft movements, a one hundred kilos mass of fresh cheese and hanging it , in a special cloth to drain. There are many passages that a wheel of cheese has to do before to rest quietly in the maturation room. One of them is the salting process, made by absorption in salt-saturated solution. The smell and the impressive sight that visitors have entering the maturation room is unique. I always say that it’s like a cathedral ….the Cathedral of Parmigiano Reggiano . Long rows of wheels of cheese from the pale yellow to the dark yellow sleeping in silence to become one of the best cheese of the world.  If you want to  know more about it watch the video!