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Tuscany-San Casciano dei Bagni

Italy, and Tuscany in particular, is peppered with natural hot springs rich in minerals that have been used by people since the ancient Romans for their health and beauty benefits. We decided to explore another side of the tuscan countryside and to go down to the border of Lazio and Umbria to  visit one of the beautifull little villages of Tuscany called San Casciano dei Bagni , well know for natural hot springs. It is a particularly favorable location as a starting point to explore a territory that, in a few tens of kilometers, ranges from Amiata, Lake Trasimeno and Lake Bolsena. The village of San Casciano was created specifically for the exploitation of its 42 thermal springs: this clearly indicates the primary importance of the beneficial spring waters in the history of this tiny village. Legend says  that the foundation of the baths of San Casciano actually dates back to the Etruscan king Porsenna. In any case the San Casciano thermal baths has been known and exploited first by the Etruscans and then by the Romans, also because of its relative proximity to Rome. It is said that the emperor Octavianus Augustus was a regular visitor to these baths. Still nowadays many Roman politicians and showmans owns a house in San Casciano dei Bagni, a a very relaxing place where it is possible to leave traffic and noise far away. The village lies on the top of a hill and the views are great! We enjoyed few hours at the Fonteverde spa a very nice resort with hot springs pools overlooking a spectacular hills view. The thermal waters of San Casciano are known for the particularly abundant flow and for the intense heat emanating: in fact they flow from more than forty sources at a temperature of 42 °. These are waters rich in minerals: they are classified as sulphurous-fluoric-calcium-magnesium and, as such, have specific therapeutic virtues and different methods of use. It is possible to find free pools around the village where warm water is always available for all. For your next travel to Italy do not miss the chance to try one of the beautiful hot springs that can be find all over the booth!

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Tortelloni and Tagliatelle by “nonna Giorgia” at Corte Roeli Farmhouse!

Have you ever thought to learn the secrets of the Italian homemade pasta? And to do it with an Italian grandmother? It can happen at Corte Roeli Framhouse, where nonna Giorgia teaches people how to make pasta with rolling pin. She shares her life and knowledge while making the dough…a wonderful experience! Corte Roeli is a farmhouse located in the courtyside between Bologna and Ferrara. Roberto and Elisabetta, the owners, are sweet people , always smiling . They work hard their lands and take care of the farmhouse and of people staying in their home. Nonna Giorgia works in the kitchen for preparing exquisite dishes for the restaurant .  Often there are  cooking classes in the farmhouse and she teaches how to make the dough and how to use the rolling pin for having a good “sfoglia” (the dough worked very thin for making pasta) . She does it at the same way her mother thought to her in the traditional Bolognese way. Nonna Giorgia doesn’t speak English so Elisabetta translate for her , but there is no need because with her hands and movement she can explain everything! One of the typical pasta of Bologna is tortelloni filled with ricotta cheese and Parmigiano Reggiano. It’s very funny learning how to make them ! And finally … a delicious meal all together as Italian families do!

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Amaltea cooking class : lesson five

Traditional Emilian homemade pasta! It’s time to make the pasta with eggs flour  and the rolling pin (it:mattarello), the specialty of my region. It’s amazing becoming aware of  how relaxing is  kneading flour and eggs, massaging the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic at the right point. Making the dough with the rolling pin is an art, it is not difficult nor easy. Basic elements: a wooden cutting board, a wooden rolling pin, eggs , flour, tranquility and passion. At the end the satisfaction is unique! So let’s take 2 eggs , 200 gr of flour and start making the dough! Make a mountain with flour and with circular movements of one hand, make a hole in the middle. Pour the eggs in a bowl and mix. Stream the eggs in the hole of flour. Start mixing eggs and flour with a fork trying not to overflowing the eggs. When it’s well mixed start working the dough with hands. When ready leave the dough to rest under a bowl for about half an hour. Than start rolling the dough with deft movements, not too strong nor too light. And continue till it is very thin…and this is not easy ! With your fresh rolled dough it’s possible to make many kind of “pasta” like “tagliatelle” , “maltagliati”, “quadretti”, “pappardelle” , “tagliolini” or many king of stuffed pasta like “tortellini”, “tortelloni”, “tortelli”, ” ravioli” and much more …

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Early Spring in the Tuscan Emilian Apennines

When you think of Italian mountains, you immediately think of Dolomites…you really don’t know how many wonderful places there are in the Apennines! I am very attached to the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines in the Modena area, I spent there many seasons with my family and I can say they are enchanting. Driving along the road that leads from Modena to Abetone you will come across several villages. One of the biggest is Pavullo nel Frignano, where there is usually some traffic. Our favourite stop in Pavullo is at the Forno Tazzioli, a bakery which is right on the main road on the right as you enter the village. Do not miss the “Focaccia” a kind o bread that is delicious!Continuing along the twisted road you arrive at another place called Lama Mocogno. This little village is very pretty and lively. On the main street you can find shops and bars. You cannot miss the Vecchia Lama Restaurant, where you can have Tuscan and Emilian specialities at the same time! Just a little further away in the locality La Santona there is another restaurant called “Miramonti” which literally means that it looks at the mountains, in fact the view is wonderful. This restaurant won many awards from the seventies to nowadays. Mom and son, the owners,  are very nice people . The mother is the cook and she does delicious homemade pasta!There are usually 3 different types of pasta and my ranking is as follows:  first “Tortelloni di ricotta burro e salvia”. Stuffed homemade pasta with ricotta cheese and spinaches melted in butter and sage…creamy and tasty! I think the secret is in the cheese that they can find directly from a mountain farm! Tortelloni ricotta and spinaches with butter and sage Second “Tortellini alla panna”,  another traditional homemade pasta filled with meat, boiled in a meat soup and mixed with fresh cream. Incredibly tasty! Tortellini with fresh cream Third “Tagliatelle al ragù”, the pasta is a little thick and soaks the sauce and meat perfectly…delightful! Tagliatelle with ragù A side dish that I love is the “vegetable salad” made with potatoes, peppers, carrots, onion and other vegtables cooked slowly for a tasty result. Vegetable salad There is no better conclusion for a meal  that eating a homemade ice cream with blueberries of the Apennines. Ice cream with blueberries After a hearty meal the journey can continue on the Abetone road towards Fiumalbo, a village that is part of the Italian ranking of the most beautiful villages. Old stone houses, mostly renovated, overlook sloping narrow streets, in a typical medieval village of the Apennines. In Spring it can happen to see the higher peak of the Tuscan –Emilian Apennine still white: Mount Cimone (that means big peak). It’s really a wonder when the top is still snow covered and the valleys are completely green! From Fiumalbo, on the way back to Modena you can make a small detour of a few kilometers and head to a location at an altitude of 1200mt called Piane di Mocogno. It is a resort town famous for skiing in Winter and long walking tours in Summer. You can also decide to stay for the night and continue you tour on the Apennines. There are many outdoor activities to do and many more places to discover!

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Cesari Winery… a wonderful place and delicious wines!

I am always surprised by the strength, intelligence and creativity of artisans, farmers and entrepreneurs of  my region,  Emilia Romagna. Umberto Cesari, certainly, is one of these. The pleasant discovery was made a few days ago during a visit to the cellars and lands of the Umberto Cesari’s winery. From the highway, exit Castel San Pietro Terme, just a few kilometers you reach the first hills on the border between Emilia, Romagna and Tuscany. The view is really nice, especially in Spring when the light green faceted sprouts gives a fresh feeling and it is incredibly relaxing. In this area at an altitude of 250-400 metres above sea level and protected by the Calanchi Azzurri, a particular kind of inaccessible and magnificent elevations, there are Cesari’s vineyards. Here in 1967, Mr. Umberto began his activities, believing strongly in the possibilities of the ancient wine of this area, the Sangiovese. The visit starts from the oldest plant where you can follow the various stages of the processing of grapes and wine aging. The visit  continues in the brand new villa located at the top of the hill where you can enjoy a wonderful view on the vineyards and Bologna. Inside the villa you will find a store with an area for tastings A tasting room lined with wood , an elegant and technologic ambient. At the lower floor there is a huge room of barrels for aging wine… the sight  is astonishing . At the first floor  the administrative offices of the company. The kindness and warmth of people you meet during the tour make it an incredibly enjoyable time . As for wines … I’m no expert but I really enjoyed tastings of wines and cold cuts with croutons. My favorite it is definitely the MOMA, a red wine , fresh and high quality, made of Sangiovese with addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot! Umberto Cesari is Considered one of Romagna’s finest wine producers, cannot go wrong!

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Amaltea Cooking class : lesson four

Four different types of Italian main dishes : Passatelli , Risotto, Potato Gnocchi and Spaghetti alla Carbonara. When you think to pasta you immediately think to Italy! Pasta is the main dish for Italians, especially for lunch. Italians don’t like to eat fast both for lunch or dinner  . We have many kind of pasta and sauces and every region has it own specialties. It is an Italian habit eating for lunch pasta or a main dish similar to pasta . Here below four typical preparations: 1) Passatelli: this is a typical main dish of Emilia Romagna and of some provinces of Marche and Umbria regions. They look like thick spaghetti but the taste is completely different because they are made with bread crumbs , Parmigiano Reggiano , eggs and some spice like nutmeg. Usually they are boiled and served with meat soup but now with new and modern recipes you can find “Passatelli asciutti” that means without soup. I love this dish , in my family every Sunday it was an habit to eat Passatelli  and to me it meant enjoying time with my family! 2) Risotto: what I can say about risotto is that all my certainties on the preparation of risotto with this lesson have disappeared … French cuisine taught to fry the onion, to toast the rice to blend it with wine and after to whisk with butter … the modern cuisine subvert these rules! Why ? Because if you want to have different tastes of Risotto , rise must take flavor from the ingredients you mix and not only from onions and wine ! And our risotto with sausages was really full of flavor! 3) Potato Gnocchi : in Italy, gnocchi are usually served as a first course instead of pasta. Gnocchi’s plump, pillowy texture and mild, delicate flavor make them perfect for rich sauces.  The texture must be soft and this can make the difference between good or bad gnocchi. For making good ones you must use potatoes with lot of starch(those with pale yellow pulp)! 4)Spaghetti alla Carbonara : this is a typical dish of Lazio region and especially of Rome , prepared with popular ingredients with an intense flavor ! Now you can find it all over Italy and not only. There are many kind of different recipes of Carbonara. The original recipe includes only “pancetta” bacon , eggs and Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano (salt and pepper). Eggs must not cook , they must be put together with pasta at the end of preparation!

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Amaltea Cooking class : third lesson

Appetizers, easy and tasty! Have you ever tried to cook an octopus ? If yes, was it tender or rubbery? Have you ever made mayo by yourself at home ? And a perfect pie made with short crust pastry and eggplants? Cooking is all about techniques, if you know the methods cooking it’s easy , relaxing and satisfying. Third lesson : basics of some easy and tasty appetizers. “Piovra bollita” boiled octopus: Many times I tried to make boiled octopus tender and I didn’t know why I couldn’t .First of all the choice of the octopus : fresh or thawed? If you buy a fresh one you must be sure that is really fresh and you must work it with coarse salt in the sink,  slamming it repeatedly for making the texture of the meat soft. If you buy a thawed one , usually it’s already slammed, so it’s easier.After cleaning it (remove the ink sack and the internal organs) put it in a pot with water, salt, a carrot, a stalk of celery and half a onion. Switch on the stove and never let the water boil , this is the trick for a tender octopus, it has to cook slowly at low temperature.Try with a fork the consistency and take it out of water when you think is enough tender for you. “Acciughe in carpione” marinated anchovies: the most important thing it is to use fresh anchovies . Cleaning them is quite simple just remove the head and follow the belly with a finger inside the fish to open it in two and remove the organs.Flour the anchovies with rice flour and fry them in boiling oil. Dry anchovies with paper towel. In another saucepan, brown the onion cut into slices, raisins, sugar and salt. Add vinegar and water and bring to a boil. Pour the mixture when is still hot on anchovies and leave to them to marinate for 24 hours . After this time drain them and they are ready to be eaten ! “Insalata di pollo con sedano , uova sode , maionese, pomodorini” chicken salad with celery , hard-boiled eggs and cherry tomatoes : If you want to have a meat tender and tasty you have to use the chicken drumsticks! Bone the meat and use the bones for making a soup with carrot, celery, onion, peppercorns and salt. Remove the foam and bring the soup to boil. Dip the meat and turn off the stove. Leave the meat cooking  slowly. When it’s cooked, cut the meat into pieces and when cold add mayo, cherry tomatoes, celery and hard-boiled eggs cut in small pieces. “maionese” mayonnaise : I’ve never tried to make mayo by myself before , but now I’ll do it for sure! It tastes completely different from the one you find at the supermarket! It’s easy to make , you need a whisk for whipping the yolks with salt , lemon juice and vinegar. When the mixture is well blended you have to add oil slowly and continuously .  The mixture have to whip well. At the end you’ll have a creamy mayo. “Quiche lorraine” savory pie with eggplants : the tricks for making a good pie are the making of the short crust pastry and the low temperature hoven cooking. For more info look at the recipes section.

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Quiche lorraine – savory pie with eggplants

Quiche Lorraine is a typical recipe of French gastronomic tradition, known throughout the world and appreciated because it’s easy to make and for its taste simple but firm. Ingredients : pasta brisè(form of shortcrust pastry) -300gr plain flour or all purpose flour, 150gr butter, 100gr very cold water- 1 eggplant , 4 yolks and 1 egg, 300gr of cream, 2 spoons of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, oil and  pepper. Directions : Pasta brisè: the pastry can be made either by hand or for speed you can use a food processor if you have one. Cut the butter in small pieces (butter must be cold) . By hand : put the flour like a mountain  on a pastry board  . Make a hole in the middle and put the butter than start to rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs, working as quickly as possible to prevent the dough becoming warm. Add the water to the mixture and using a palette knife make deft movement until the dough binds together. Crush the dough and form a tablet, wrap it in plastic wrap and chill for about 30 minutes. Cut the eggplant into cubes and cook in a pan with oil, salt and pepper. Mix eggs with Parmigiano Reggiano, salt , pepper and then incorporate the cream. Take the dough and roll it quickly.  Put it in a cake pan. Make little holes with a fork . Lay the pieces of grilled eggplant and pour the egg mixture and cream. Cook in the oven at 150°C for about 1 hour.

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Parmigiano Reggiano cheese …in the heart of Emilia and of my roots…

In the mist, in a flat land of fields of forages grown for feeding cows, in a small town in the Bolognese countryside called San Giovanni in Persiceto lies one of the real Parmigiano Reggiano cheese productions. My uncle’s one.  This is where I was born, where I can find my roots. I can tell you about smells, colors, habits and traditions… Parmigiano Reggiano is not only a cheese, it is the story of the hard work and sacrifices of many people , in this case of a whole family, that started in the fifties with my grandfather Enea Caretti. From more than 60 years, every single day, early in the morning, my family has made and continue to make  Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Everything begins from the fields , from the forage for cows . There are restricted rules for the feeding of the cattle. Parmigiano Reggiano is a whole natural product, no additives or preservatives are added, that’s why the milk must respect determined parameters and cows must not eat fermented or silage forage. In the dairy the master cheese maker is like a Chef in a kitchen, he knows exactly what to do and when, in a fascinating dance between cauldrons and milk. The most amazing thing is seeing the cheese maker taking out from the cauldrons, with deft movements, a one hundred kilos mass of fresh cheese and hanging it , in a special cloth to drain. There are many passages that a wheel of cheese has to do before to rest quietly in the maturation room. One of them is the salting process, made by absorption in salt-saturated solution. The smell and the impressive sight that visitors have entering the maturation room is unique. I always say that it’s like a cathedral ….the Cathedral of Parmigiano Reggiano . Long rows of wheels of cheese from the pale yellow to the dark yellow sleeping in silence to become one of the best cheese of the world.  If you want to  know more about it watch the video!

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Ragu di carne alla Modenese- Modenese meat ragu

This a traditional sauce that will make your pasta really tasty! The trick it is making it easy to digest! Ingredients: 500gr ground beef , 250gr ground pork, 250gr Italian sausage, carrot , celery, onion, salt , pepper, tomato paste or fresh tomatoes , half glass of white wine and half glass of milk. Directions : the first step it is to finely chop carrot, celery and onion . Put the mixture in a pan with oil and fry slowly over low heat. It will take 30 minutes to cook it well . This step is important because if you cook it in the right way you’ll digest perfectly the ragu. At this point in another pan put the meat all together at very high temperature. The pan must be hot already , when you put the meat , and there must be a little bit of oil on the bottom. With a spatula quickly detach the meat from the bottom of the pan and mix it until it will be cooked. Add the mixture of onion , carrot and celery cooked to it. Deglaze with the wine first, and when evaporated add the milk. As soon as the liquid is reduced, add tomato paste, salt and pepper. Cover with water or vegetable broth. Leave it simmer for at least 3 hours and adjust it with salt and pepper at the end of cooking. Put it on pasta and “buon appetito”!

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Cook and Travel with Cristina

True Italian Way of Life